U-Boat Classico Tungsteno Chronograph Automatic Watch with Beige Dial.
The Classico line descends from the diving watch Ilvo Fontana drew in 1942 for the Italian naval forces, and carries the left-hand crown that drawing placed there. This Classico Tungsteno Chronograph times elapsed intervals under a polished tungsten bezel, from a crown extraction lever at 8:30. The case measures 45 mm in stainless steel 316L.
A mechanical automatic chronograph calibre drives the hours, minutes, seconds, a chronograph, date and a 24-hour indicator, beneath a sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment. A crown extraction lever sits at 8:30, while the steel case back is closed with 7 screws and opens in a U-shaped sapphire window over the movement. The bezel is polished tungsten and the 24-hour hand is red.
The dial is built on 3 levels of metal, held in beige. Hands and indices are treated with Superluminova for nocturnal legibility. The watch comes on a lasered leather strap aged by a natural process and handmade in Tuscany, 22 mm at the lugs, closed by a steel tongue buckle.
It comes from a watch Ilvo Fontana drew in 1942 for the Italian naval forces, a diver whose crown sat on the left so the hands could be set from that side. His grandson Italo Fontana founded U-Boat in Lucca around that drawing, and the patented clamp over the crown is the part he added.
The upper pusher starts and stops the timing hand and the lower one returns it to zero. The registers on the dial carry the minutes and the hours that the central hand has counted past its first turn.
Tungsten is far harder than steel, so a polished tungsten bezel holds its mirror finish through the knocks that would dull a steel one. U-Boat took it up as one of its own innovations, alongside the crown on the left and the patented release that frees it from its stop.
The movement from the bridge side, with the oscillating weight that winds the mainspring as the wrist moves and the balance swinging at the far end. That weight is cut open so the gear train stays in view behind it.
It is a large watch and it is built to read as one. Compare the figure against a watch you already own before you order, because the diameter is what decides this and it is the measurement a photograph flattens. A loose cuff will pass over it.
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