U-Boat Classico Tungsteno Chronograph Automatic Watch with Beige Dial.
The Classico line goes back to the diving watch Ilvo Fontana drew in 1942 for the Italian naval forces, a design that stayed on paper, and it carries the left-hand crown that drawing put there. This one times elapsed intervals from a dial cut on 3 levels, under a polished tungsten bezel. The case measures 45 mm in stainless steel 316L.
The movement is automatic. It runs a mechanical calibre modified to the specifications of the house.
The beige dial is cut on stepped levels, so the counters and the hour track read at different depths under the crystal. It is worn on brown leather.
It comes from a watch Ilvo Fontana drew in 1942 for the Italian naval forces, a diver whose crown sat on the left so the hands could be set from that side. His grandson Italo Fontana built the house in Lucca around that drawing, and the patented clamp over the crown is the part he added.
The upper pusher starts and stops the timing hand and the lower one returns it to zero. The registers on the dial carry the minutes and the hours that the central hand has counted past its first turn.
Tungsten is far harder than steel, so a polished tungsten bezel holds its mirror finish through the knocks that would dull a steel one. The house counts it among its own innovations, alongside the crown on the left and the patented release that frees it from its stop.
The movement from the bridge side, with the oscillating weight that winds the mainspring as the wrist moves and the balance swinging at the far end. The house cuts that weight open so the gear train stays in view behind it.
It is a large watch and the house builds it to read as one. Compare the figure against a watch you already own before you order, because the diameter is what decides this and it is the measurement a photograph flattens. A loose cuff will pass over it.
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